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Arriving in ISTANBUL can come as a shock. Most visitors head for the old
city in and around Sultanahmet , where though you're still technically in
Europe, there are immediate differences: back streets teem with traders pushing
handcarts, stevedores carrying burdens twice their size, and omnipresent
shoeshine boys. Men still monopolize the public bars and teahouses, while many
women cover their heads, averting their gaze. Yet this is merely one aspect of
modern Istanbul; only a couple of kilometres to the north you'll find the former
European quarter of Beyoglu , with its trendy bars and cutting-edge dance
clubs, while north again are the pavement cafés and restaurants of Ortaköy
and the swish Bosphorus suburbs of Arnavutköy, Bebek and Etiler. These days the
city has a social and cultural diversity to match any of its Western
counterparts.
Istanbul is the only city in the world to have played capital to consecutive
Christian and Islamic empires, and retains features of both, often in congested
proximity. Byzantium , as the city was formerly known, was an important
trading centre, but only gained real power in the fourth century AD, when
Constantine chose it as the new capital of the Roman Empire . Later, as Constantinople
, the city became increasingly dissociated from Rome, adopting the Greek
language and Christianity and becoming, effectively, the capital of an
independent empire. In 1203 the city was sacked by the Crusaders, and when the
Byzantines, led by Michael VIII Palaeologus, regained control in 1261, many of
the major buildings had fallen into disrepair, with the empire itself greatly
diminished in size. As the Byzantines declined, the Ottoman Empire
prospered, and in 1453 the city was captured by Mehmet the Conqueror, who
shortly after began rebuilding works. In the following century, the victory was
reinforced by the great military achievements of Selim the Grim and by the reign
of Süleyman the Magnificent, whose conquests helped fund the greatest of all
Ottoman architects, Mimar Sinan. By the nineteenth century, however, the glory
days of Ottoman domination were firmly over. Defeat in World War I was followed
by the War of Independence , after which Atatürk created a new capital
in Ankara - although Istanbul retained its importance as a centre of trade and
commerce. In recent years , the population of the city has reached twelve
million, a fifth of the country's total, and is still on the rise, adding
further to the cacophony and congestion.
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